COMPOST THE IDEAL PLANT FOOD Why is compost special? Compost is a rich and crumbly blend of partially decomposed organic material that does wonderful things for your garden. Compost improves soil structure. Most gardeners don not start with great soil. Whether yours is hard and compacted, sandy, stony, heavy, or wet, adding compost will improve its texture, water-holding capacity, and fertility. Your soil will gradually become fluffy and brown, the ideal home for healthy plants. Compost provides a balanced source of plant nutrients. Even if you are lucky enough to have great soil, you can not expect that soil to remain rich and productive without replenishing the nutrients that are consumed each growing season. No commercial fertilizer, even one that is totally organic, provides the full spectrum of nutrients that you get with compost. The nutrients are available gradually, as your plants need them, over a period of months or years. The microorganisms in the compost will also help your plants absorb nutrients from fertilizers more efficiently. Compost stimulates beneficial organisms. Compost is teeming with all kinds of microorganisms and soil fauna that help convert soil nutrients into a form that can be readily absorbed by your plants. The microorganisms, enzymes, vitamins and natural antibiotics that are present in compost actually help prevent many soil pathogens from harming your plants. Earthworms, millipedes, and other macro-organisms tunnel through your soil, opening up passageways for air and water to reach your plants’ roots. Compost is garden insurance. Even very experienced gardeners often have soil that is less than perfect. Adding compost moderates pH and fertility problems, so you can concentrate on the pleasures of gardening, not the science of your soil's chemical composition. Unlike organic or inorganic fertilizers, which need to be applied at the right time and in the right amount, compost can be applied at any time and in any amount. You can not really over-apply it. Plants use exactly what they need, when they need it. Can a gardener ever have enough compost? It’s doubtful. Compost is the perfect thing to spread around when you are creating a new garden, seeding a new lawn area, or planting a new tree. Compost can be sprinkled around plants during the growing season or used as mulch in your perennial gardens. You can add 2 Compost to your flower boxes and deck planters. You can also use it to enrich the potting soil for your indoor plants. Carbon. Carbon-rich materials are the energy food for microorganisms. You can identify high-carbon plant materials because they are dry, tough, or fibrous, and tan or brown in color. Examples are dry leaves, straw, rotted hay, sawdust, shredded paper, and cornstalks. Nitrogen. High-nitrogen materials provide the protein-rich components that microorganisms require to grow and multiply. Freshly pulled weeds, fresh grass clippings, over-ripe fruits and vegetables, kitchen scraps and other moist green matter are the sorts of nitrogen-rich materials you’ll probably have on hand. Other high-protein organic matter includes kelp meal, seaweed, manure and animal by-products like blood or bone meal. Water. Moisture is very important for the composting process. But too much moisture will drown the microorganisms, and too little will dehydrate them. A general rule of thumb is to keep the material in your compost pile as moist as a well-wrung sponge. If you need to add water (un-chlorinated is best), insert your garden hose into the middle of the pile in several places, or sprinkle the pile with water next time you turn it. Using an enclosed container or covering your pile with a tarp will make it easier to maintain the right moisture level. Oxygen. To do their work most efficiently, microorganisms require a lot of oxygen. When your pile is first assembled, there will probably be plenty of air between the layers of materials. But as the microorganisms begin to work, they will start consuming oxygen. Unless you turn or in some way aerate your compost pile, they will run out of oxygen and become sluggish. Do I Need a Recipe? 3 and a lesser amount of high-nitrogen “green” materials (such as grass clippings, freshly pulled weeds, or kitchen scraps). If you have an excess of carbon-rich materials and not enough nitrogen-rich materials, your pile may take years to decompose (there is not enough protein for those microbes!). If your pile has too much nitrogen and not enough carbon, your pile will also decompose very slowly (not enough for the microbes to eat!), and it will probably be soggy and smelly along the way. But don’t worry about determining the exact carbon content of a material or achieving a precise 25:1 ratio. Composting does not need to be a competitive, goal-oriented task. All organic matter breaks down eventually, no matter what you do. If you simply use about 3 times as much “brown” materials as “green” materials, you’ll be off to a great start. Take a look at the sample recipes and check the chart of common compost materials. With experience, you’ll get a sense for what works best. There are primarily three types of microbes that work to digest the materials in a compost pile. They each work best in a particular temperature range: The Psychrophiles work in cool temperatures, even as low as 10 degrees C. As they begin to digest some of the carbon-rich materials, they give off heat, which causes the temperature in the pile to rise. When the pile warms to 30 to 40 degrees C, Mesophilic bacteria take over. They are responsible for the majority of the decomposition work. If the Mesophiles have enough carbon, nitrogen, air, and water, they work so hard that they raise the temperature in the pile to about 50 degrees C. At this point, Thermophilic bacteria become active. It is these bacteria that can raise the temperature high enough to sterilize the compost and kill disease-causing organisms and weed seeds. Three to five days of 75 degrees C. is enough for the Thermophiles to do their best work. Getting your compost pile “hot” (70 to 80 degrees C.) is not critical, but it does mean that your compost will be finished and usable within a month or so. These high temperatures also kill most weed seeds, as well as harmful pathogens that can cause disease problems. Most people don’t bother charting the temperature curve in their compost pile. They just try to get a good ratio of carbon to nitrogen, keep the pile moist and well aerated, and wait until everything looks pretty well 4 broken down. If you want to get a little more scientific about it, buy a compost thermometer. Commercial activators can help raise the temperature in your compost pile by providing a concentrated dose of microorganisms and protein. Other effective activators that can help to get your pile cooking include humus-rich soil, rotted manure, finished compost, dried blood, and alfalfa meal. To Turn or Not to Turn After turning, the pile should heat up again, as long as there is still un-decomposed material to be broken down. When the temperature stays pretty constant no matter how much you turn the pile, your compost is probably ready. Though turning can speed the composting process, it also releases heat into the air, so you should turn your pile less frequently in cold weather. There are several ways to help keep your pile well aerated, without the hassle of turning: Build your pile on a raised wood platform or on a pile of branches. Make sure there are air vents in the sides of your compost bin. Put one or two perforated 4-inch plastic pipes in the center of your pile. Worm Composting To maintain a separate worm bin for composting food scraps, you need a watertight container that can be kept somewhere that the temperature will remain between 50 and 80 degrees F. all year-round. Ready-made worm bins are available, but you can also make your own. Red worms are available by mail. 5 1. Keep some straw, kitchen litter, dry leaves, or peat moss near your compost pile. Sprinkle a little on the top of the pile each time you add fresh weeds or kitchen scraps. These high-carbon materials will help keep the C/N ratio in balance. 2. Try burying your kitchen scraps right in the garden. Just dig a 12- to 15-inch-deep hole in the pathway, pour in the scraps, and cover with soil. 3. Search around your town for a plentiful source of free organic material. You might try a horse farm, food processing plant, local wood shop, or grounds maintenance service. 4. Cover your pile for best results. It will deter pests, hold in heat, and keep the moisture level more constant. A pile that’s dry or too water-logged takes a very long time to break down. You can use a tarp, piece of plastic, a piece of old carpet, or piece of metal roofing. 5. In northern states, cover your pile in late fall to avoid leaching nutrients and to prevent the pile from becoming water-logged. A drier pile will thaw more quickly the following spring. 6. Don’t add compost to a seed-starting mix unless you are sure that the pile got hot enough to be sterilized (140°-160°F). Seedlings are very susceptible to bacteria that are harmless to more mature plants. 7. Shredded materials compost very rapidly. The more surface area for microbes to attack, the sooner you’ll have usable compost. You can chop your materials with a machete or shovel, run them through a shredding machine, or run over them with your lawn mower. 8. Compost piles that are smaller than 3 feet by 3 feet will have trouble heating up - especially in cool climates. Piles larger than 5 feet by 5 feet may not allow enough air to reach the center. 9. If fruit flies are a problem indoors, your compost container is probably not airtight. Make sure it has a tight-fitting lid that gets sealed shut after being opened. 10. If skunks and burrowing rodents are hanging around your compost pile, try using a powdered or spray repellent. You can also bury hardware cloth up and around the bottom of your compost bin. Avoid putting meat or fatty foods in your pile: they attract all sorts of animals. Compost pile won’t heat up. The materials may be too dry. This can happen quickly during the summer months. Try to keep your compost materials moist to the touch. Cover the pile. The pile may be low in nitrogen. Fast-working microorganisms can quickly consume all the nitrogen and leave un-decomposed carbon materials behind. Replenish the nitrogen content of your pile with fresh green grass clippings, garden weeds, kitchen scraps, manure, or an activator like Super Hot. Your pile may also be too small. Collect more materials and mix everything into a pile that measures 3 feet on each side, and is at least 3-feet high. Smelly compost. If your pile smells like ammonia, it may contain too much nitrogen. Add carbon materials such as straw, leaves, or hay to correct the balance. Soggy compost. Dense or water-logged compost piles don’t contain enough oxygen for the microorganisms to survive. Often these piles give off an unpleasant odor. The solution is to aerate the pile and add more dry materials. Finished product is too rough. Some materials like eggshells and corncobs take a very long time to break down. If you want more finely textured compost, shred or chop up the materials before putting them into the bin. You can also sift out these crumbs and throw them back into the next pile.By Capt. S.K.BHANDARI (Retd.) - ASFIC - DEHRA DUN Phone:0135 2723634
Building and maintaining a compost pile is the surest, easiest way to become a better gardener. Not only will you be producing the best possible food for your garden, but by watching leaves, eggshells, orange rinds, and grass clippings become transformed into rich compost filled with earthworms and other soil creatures, you’ll be learning what healthy soil is all about.
How compost is made - Organic matter is transformed into compost through the work of microorganisms, soil fauna, enzymes and fungi. When making compost, your job is to provide the best possible environment for these beneficial organisms to do their work. If you do so, the decomposition process works very rapidly, sometimes in as little as two weeks! If you don not provide the optimum environment, decomposition will still happen, but it may take from several months to several years. The trick to making an abundance of compost in a short time is to balance the following four things:
Microorganisms and other soil fauna work most efficiently when the ratio of carbon-rich to nitrogen-rich materials in your compost pile is approximately 25:1. In practical terms, if you want to have an active compost pile, you should include lots of high-carbon “brown” materials (such as straw, wood chips, or dry leaves)
Compost gets hot
Heat is a by-product of intense microbial activity. It indicates that the microorganisms are munching on organic matter and converting it into finished compost. The temperature of your compost pile does not in itself affect the speed or efficiency of the decomposition process. But temperature does determine what types of microbes are active.
Unless speed is a priority, frequent turning is not necessary. Many people never turn their compost piles. The purpose of turning is to increase oxygen flow for the microorganisms, and to blend un-decomposed materials into the center of the pile. If you are managing a hot pile, you’ll probably want to turn your compost every 3 to 5 days, or when the interior temperature dips below about 50 degrees C.
Employing worms to make compost is called vermiculture. Manure worms, red worms, and branding worms (the small ones usually sold by commercial breeders) are dynamos when it comes to decomposing organic matter, especially kitchen scraps. The problem is that these worms cannot tolerate high temperatures. Add a handful of them to an active compost pile and they will be dead in an hour. Field worms and night crawlers (common garden worms with one big band) are killed at even lower temperatures.
COMPOST MAKING ' TIPS & TROUBLE SHOOTING
COMPOST THE IDEAL PLANT FOOD
Posted in Gaedening.
– October 7, 2008
ORCHIDS
What is an ORCHID?
The Orchid is one of mother earths' most beautiful, magnificent and magical flower which grows on the edge of a slender stalk of the plant. The orchid consists of three inner petals, three outer petals, and a cupped shaped petal, which is distinct from the rest and gives an altogether out of the world look to the flower.
Yes, it is exotic, delicate and once seen will always create in you a desire to possess. Its' sweet scent is so scintillating that if you are very near to it you would never miss it. T
he orchids have survived all these ages, mainly because of the multi pollinating techniques adopted by the species. They multiply by pollination through the medium of bees, wind, crawling insects, small mammals and hummingbirds.
World wise there are some 35,000 species of the orchid. It thrives best in the rainforests. However it can be seen in the Alpine and the Himalaya range of mountains. Majority of the cultivated orchids are native of tropical countries and occur in their greatest diversity in humid tropical forest of South and Central America, Mexico, India, Ceylon, Burma, South China, Thailand, Malaysia, Philippines, New Guinea and Australia. Brazilian cattleyas, Mexican laelias and Indian dendrobiums, cymbidiums and vandas have played a major role in the development of modern orchid industry in the world.
It is estimated that about 1,300 species of orchids are found in our country with Himalayas as their main home and others scattered in Eastern and Western Ghats.
The following is the distribution of orchid's species in different regions of India.
North-Western Himalayas 200 species
North-Eastern India 800 species
Western Ghats 300 species
Some of the Indian orchid species which are of high ornamental value are: Aerides crispum, A. fieldingii, A. multiflorum, A. odoratum, Anaectochilus roxburghii , Arachnis clarkei, Arundina graminifolio, Bulbophyllum leopardinum, Calanthe masuca, Coelogyne elatn, C. devonianum, Cymbidium pendulum, C. longifolium, C. munronianum, Dendrobium aggregatum, D. aphyllum, D. fimbriatum, D. jenkinsii, D. moschatum, D. nobile, Paphiopedilum faireanum, P. venstum, P. hirsutissium, p. insigne, Phaius wallichii, Pleione praecox, Rhynchostylis retusa, Thunia alba, Vanda cristata, V. coerulea and V. coerulescens.
Majority of the cultivated orchids are native of tropical climates and are found in abundance in India in the state of Assam, Meghalaya, West Bengal, Karnataka and Kerala. Kalimpong, Shillong, Trivandrum, Bangalore, Yercaud. Orchids can be divide into two groups - monopodial or sympodial depending upon their habit of growth. Orchids known as epiphytic orchids normally grow on the bark of the trees. We also have grounds orchids or terrestrial orchids which grow like ordinary plants with their roots in soil.
Most of the temperate zone orchids are terrestrial and tropical orchids are epiphytes. Orchids in nature grow protected from the tropical sun by the shades of trees. Under controlled condition the orchids can be grown in specially designed orchidaria or orchid houses, running North and South and made from materials like split bamboo, glass, shade nets, etc.
LIGHT
There are also orchids which can be grown in open sun. Various leave species of Vanda, Aranda, Arachnis, Renanthera, kegawara, Mokara etc. can be grown in open trenches filled with brick pieces, charcoal as is done in Ceylon, Singapore and Thailand. Indirect sunlight is ideal for orchids. Seedlings require less light than adult plants. Very poor light tends to produce weak plants and retards flowering. A plant which has been grown in shades should gradually be shifted to sunlight conditions.
Toptimum requirement of light varies between species to species. Cypripedium and Phalaenopsis require only 200-300 watts Whereas Vanda and Aranda thrive best under 800 watts.
TEMPRATURE
Orchids dislike sudden change in temperature, however a difference of 10۫ C - 20۫ C between day and night temperatures is beneficial for their growth. The best suitable range is 18۫ C to 30 ۫C, with proper ventilation, which provides fresh air and also helps in reducing the temperature
WATERING & HUMIDITY
Humid warm atmosphere is most essential for the growth of most of the tropical orchids, which do not have well established root system. It is a good idea to have a water tank or pool in the center of the orchidaria to maintain humidity, which should not be less than 30% at night and 80% during day time, The plants should be watered 2-3 times a day and should not be allowed to dry up during hot climate. Plants in active growth require more water. Similarly plants in baskets require more water than those in pots. Care should be taken to water the plants with a fine spray by using standard nozzles and not to hit the plants with powerful jets of water. Plants which are freshly potted should be watered very sparingly till the new roots appear and watering should be gradually increased.
POTTED ORCHIDS
Orchids should be potted in small spots according to the size of the plants. As a thumb rule, orchids should be under potted to get more flowers. Any kind of pot which can hold medium and provide aeration is suitable. Most people prefer plastic pots which retain moisture longer than mud pots. Vandaceous and Sarcenthene orchids can be grown in teak-wood baskets.
Orchid plants should not be disturbed frequently and repotting done only when absolutely necessary. Orchids like Cymbidium, react favorably when repotted after 2-3 years whereas Vandeceous orchids and Paphiopedilum should not be disturbed unless very necessary. Terrestrial orchids, like Spathoglottis, Phaius and Calanthe, should be grown in 20-25 cm pots with 1:1:1 mixture of leaf mould, FYM and sand. For Paphiopedilum A mixture of 2:2:1 of leaf mould, loam soil and brick pieces and charcoal is recommended.
MANURING
In nature, orchids obtain their supply of inorganic nutrients like calcium, magnesium, iron, potassium, nitrogen and traces of manganese, boron, copper, zinc etc. from the tree on which they are growing and also from atmosphere and decaying vegetables and dropping of birds. However under controlled conditions they have to be supplied with all these major and minor nutrients. Taking into consideration the special need of different orchids, a large number of fertilizer mixtures, both solid and liquid, are available in market. Liquid fertilizers are much more quickly absorbed and can be applied more frequently. As the orchids are slow growing, slow release fertilizers like osmocote can be used to get very good result. Usage of fertilizers should also depend on stage of growth. During vegetative growth, large quantities of nitrogen are required while during flowering, nitrogen should be reduced and amount of phosphate increased. We have been getting excellent results by using slow release fertilizer mixtures (NPK 20:20:20) with trace elements and coconut water (20-25 %) applied every week for three successive weeks followed by a 10:20:30 (NPK). In general, pH of the nutrient solution should be slightly acidic or neutral but not alkaline.
DISEASES & PESTS
Like all other plants orchids are also pone to a number of diseases caused by fungi, virus, bacteria, insects and pests. The most common diseases in each group are:
FUNGAL AND BACTERIAL DISEASES
Leaf spot - caused by Colletotrichum and Gleosporium Leaf blight - caused by Pythium Collar blocth - caused by Penicilium thomii Collar rot - caused by Sclerotium Orchid wilt - caused by Sclerotium rolfsli Various fungicides like Captan, Dithane, Agrosan and Ceresan are very effective against these diseases.
VIRUS DISEASES
More than 32 diseases are known to occur on orchids. In some cases the same virus has been known to produce more than one disease in different species, the most common are Cymbidium mosaic virus. As control measures all infected plants should be isolated to prevent spreading of the disease. The most commonly reported insects pests on orchids are thrips, aphids, spider mite, soft scale, mealy bugs, orchid weevil, snail and slugs. These insects' pests harm the plants in many ways. They feed on tender young shoot, suck the sap and damage the young bud and shoots and also act as the carrier of different diseases. Fortunately all these can be controlled by effective insecticides like Parathion, Malathion, BHC, CPC, Dieldrin, etc. Metaldehyde has proved to be very effective in killing slugs and snails.
PROPAGATION
Orchids like other Horticultural crops may be propagated as under:
VEGETATIVE PROPAGATION
Cuttings Orchids like Aerides, Arachnis, Epidendrum, Renanthera, Phalaenopsis, Vanda and Dendrobium can be propagated by cutting. Orchids cutting are usually bigger and should possess one or more roots. Cutting are usually potted in propagation beds or directly in pots after treating the cut ends with fungicides to prevent rotting. Cutting of genera, like Aerides, Arachnis, Vanda etc., are very hardy and can be directly potted in pots, whereas those of dendrobium and Phalaenopsis need special care to root and should be potted in propagation beds. The propagation of orchids through cuttings is getting popular again and some of the nursery men like to propagate their orchids through cuttings to get uniform plants.
Most of the sympodial orchids, like Coelogyne, Cattleya, Dendrobium and Cymbidium, are propagated through this method. The method involved consists of dividing large clumps into smaller units. However care should be taken not to divide the plants unless there are 8-10 pseudo-bulbs. Dendrobiums which are very fast growing can be divided every year. Off-shoots In some monopodial orchids like Ascocenda and Phalaenopsis, off-shoots emerge frequently on the main stem. This usually happens when the apex has lost its effectiveness in suppressing axillary buds. Aerial shoots Most of the dendrobiums produce aerial shoots or bulbs on old back bulbs devoid of leaves. They usually arise on the upper part of the back of the bulbs and grow slowly. These aerial shoots take 90-120 days to develop roots. At this stage, they are detached along with the portion of back of the bulb and potted as independent plant. The Goodyera, Rhizomes gives off special lateral branches which turn up and produce aerial shoots. When they are properly rooted they get detached from the mother plant and establish separately. Other methods Orchids can also be propagated through Seeds and Tissue Culture both of which are very highly technical in nature and take a very long time as such these methods cannot be adopted by the home Gardner.
Posted in Gaedening.
– August 5, 2008
GARDEN CALANDER
GARDEN CALANDER
JANUARY
FRUITS: The coldest month of year, with frosts and chilly weather. Great care has to be taken for the protection of young saplings of fruit trees like litchi, mango, papaya, chikoo, custard apple etc. by covering them with a thick thatch of hay and their basins should be watered.
Pruning of peach, plum, pear trees and grape vine should be done. After pruning the plants should be sprayed with rogor/metasystox and metacid as applicable to protect them from hibernating insects.
Cuttings of deciduous fruit plants (plants which shed their leaves in winter) should be placed in prepared small beds in sunny place and kept moist with frequent watering.
GRAPES: Both the plants and the cutting sown. Pruning of old grape vine should be done leaving 4 to six buds on the new branches.
MANGO: The treatment for mealy-bug should be undertaken. The lower trunk of the trees should be sprayed with CPP (
VEGETABLES: Seedlings of Spring Onions should be transplanted in well prepared beds in rows 6-9 inches apart at a distance of 4-6 inches from plant to plant and irrigation withheld for one week at-least for better root formation. Seedlings of Chilies, Capsicum and Tomatoes sown in October should be transplanted.
Spring Potatoes should be sown in well manure beds. Cut pieces of large size potatoes bearing 1 to 2 buds should be used.
Winter vegetables like Radish, Turnip, Carrot, Beat Root, Dwarf Beans, Peas, Spinach, Soya, Salad etc. should be done to maintain supplies till April. Apply manure to all fruit trees, ornamental plants and the winter annuals already planted.
FLOWERS
ROSES: If roses are pruned in September the flush of flowers will last till end December. Thereafter, two maintenance feeds of 25 gm of fertiliser (rose mixture) should be applied one each in the first week of January.
CHRYSANTHEMUMS: After the plants have flowered in October to December/January, the branches of the plants should be cut down to 6 to 9 inches.
These plants are called Stools (Mother Plants) and should be allowed to rest for about two months till mid February, when suckers start emerging from the mother plants.
INDOOR PLANTS: These plants must be exposed to the sun and manure applied.
SHRUBS: Plant cuttings of various shrubs like Chandni, Bougainvillea and Rat Ki Rani etc.
HEDGES: Old damaged hedges should be repaired by planting cuttings of these hedge plants in gaps 6 inches apart crosswise and watered regularly.
LAWNS: Sprinkle water on the grass early in the morning as this prevents the dew or frost to damage the grass. In the third week of January apply Urea or CAN and flood the same immediately. During the last week of January mow the lawn.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Sarson, Amla, Guva, Turnip, Cauliflower, Carrot, Kenew, Gulgul,
FEBRUARY
FRUITS: Young seedlings of Litchi, Mango, Chikoo, Papaya etc should be kept covered with rough thatches keeping south west side open to allow sun and air to protect them from frost and cold winds.
On frosty nights light irrigation may be given to the young fruit saplings.
Manure should be applied to all fruit trees according to the age and size of the plants followed by watering. All fruit plants specially those of Peach,
GRAPES: Grape vines should be pruned by cutting back last year’s shoots, leaving 2-3 buds for new growth of fruit bearing shoots.
Soil around the roots of the vine should be dug 9-10 inches deep and left exposed to weather for a week or more and all fibrous hair-like roots should be removed, after which compost mixed with CAN should be applied and covered with the soil, followed by light irrigation.
VEGETABLES: Seedlings of Chilies, Capsicum, Tomato and Brinjals sown in October should be transplanted in beds if not done in January. Well manure beds should be made for sowing early crop of summer vegetables like Khira, Kerala, Chapan Kadu, Loki, and Kakri etc. at the end of the month for early supply of these vegetables.
Hoeing should be done to the crop of Potato and Spring Onions.
FLOWERS
ROSES: Same as in January.
SUMMER SEASON FLOWERS: Seeds of early summer flowering annuals may be sown in the last week of this month to raise seedlings of Portulaca, Amaranthus, Coleus, Kochia, Celosia, Zinnia, Gamphorena, Gallardia, Golden-rod etc. Bulbs of Football Lilly, Caladium, and Amaryllis may be planted.
FOLIAGE PLANTS: There is little growth in foliage plants. Watering should be done with a gap of 7-8 days and excess watering should be avoided. Varieties of foliage plants like Crotons, Money Plant, and Philodendron should be protected from frost and cold winds.
INDOOR PLANTS: Transplanting can be done from the last week of February. Liquid manure may be given to all the plants including palms.
SHRUBS: Cuttings of ornamental shrubs, Bougainvillea, Climbers and Hedge Plants may be planted if not done already, without any delay in well manure beds and kept moist with frequent light irrigation.
HEDGES: Old damaged hedges should be renovated by planting cuttings of these very hedges in the gaps 6 inches apart cross-wise and irrigated frequently.
LAWNS: Since the nights are still cool, give another dose of Urea or CAN to the lawn preferably in the first week of this month. Keep on mowing the lawn as soon as it is thick and tall enough. Patchy lawns should be renovated by digging them up and manure added before planting fresh runners in the last week of the month and frequently watered.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Sarson, Alma, Guava, Turnip, Carrot, Cauliflower, Kinnow,
MARCH
FRUITS: With the change of weather all thatch covers over the young plants must be removed. Land around them should be dug up after adding manure and irrigated after making deep basins.
Lime washing of lower 3 feet of the main trunks of the Litchi and Mango trees should be done to protect them from sunburn, attack of insects and fungal pests.
Mango trees on flowering should be sprayed with Malathion to control the mango hopper pests.
Peach and almond tress should be sprayed with metasystox/roger and Nicotine Sulphate or Malathion as soon as the fruit have set and are of pea grain size.
VEGETABLES Small beds and shallow pits should be made and manure added in the soil for sowing seeds of summer vegetables like Bhindi, Beans, Khera, Louki, Pumpkins etc.
Bhindi, Chilies, Capsicum, tomato, brinjal and beans may be sown in flat beds and the rest in shallow pits.
Ginger, Haldi, Arbi and Zimikind, should be covered with thick layer of dry leaves about 6 inches deep to protect the tubers from heat and to preserve moisture air in the soil.
Spring Onions and Garlic beds should be hoed after spreading manure and irrigated immediately. first week of March or it is planted in rich soil in 9 inch to 10 inch pot or in a well-manure bed at a distance of 18 inches.
LAWN: Give sterameal to grass, 1 kg sterameal for a lawn of 12×12 feet size. Again be on the lookout for weeds. Digging bare patches, adding manure and planting fresh runners of the grass should be undertaken to renovate the patchy lawn. These should be kept wet by frequent watering.
INDOOR PLANTS: Manure and put them in shady place. Give liquid manure in the first week of March.
FOOD PRESERVATION Cauliflower, Tomato, Turnip, Carrot, Peas,
GENERAL Planting of new trees, climbers, shrubs and hedges may be completed in the first fortnight. Seeds of the hedges and trees can be sown now. Se4ed collection of flowering annuals may be done. Care should be taken that seeds are properly dried and labeled. Seeds of the summer glowering annuals should be sown in the nursery during the second fortnight of the month.
APRIL
FRUITS: All litchis, mango and other fruit trees should be provided with deep basins for irrigation during the hot summers.
These basins should be filled with dry leaves after leaving a mound of soil around the trunk of the trees. Lime washing of the trunk up-to three feet from the ground should be applied to all the fruit trees to protect them from sunburn and attack of insects and fungal pests.
Mango trees in flowers should be sprayed with Malathion to control mango hopper pests. Seeds from selected papaya fruits should be sown
FLOWERS
ROSES: No change. Portulaca, Amaranthus, Coleus, Kochia, Celosia, Zinnia, Gamphorena, Gallardia, Golden-rod etc. Bulbs of Football Lilly, Caladium, and Amartllis may be planted.
CHRYASANTHEMUMS: A small sucker is planted in 3 inch pot in the in small 4 inch pots after rubbing them with dry ashes to remove the mucilage to induce quicker germination.
Seedlings would be ready for transplantation in August-September and will start fruiting in the coming winter.
VEGETABLES: Clear the winter vegetable beds and prepare them for the next season. Seedling of Chilies, Capsicum, Brinjal and tomato should be transplanted in small manageable beds if not already done.
Ginger and Haldi should be sown on ridges 2-3 inches depend covered with 9-8 inches deep layer of dry leaves to protect them from the heat and preserve moisture in the soil.
Seeds of all summer vegetables like Bhindi, Beans, Khera, Louki, Torai should be sown in small manageable plots with adequate and assured water supply.
Spring crop of Onions should be hoed after irrigation and green stems trampled down with feet to induce larger bulbs.
FLOWERS: Winter season flowers which have stopped flowering should be cleaned and the beds should be prepared for summer season.
Seedlings of summer flowers like Portulaca, Amaranthus, Dahlia, Sunflower etc. should be transplanted. This is the best time for flowering Cannas.
Seed collection of the late winter flowers can be done.
Damaged areas in the Shrubs can be filled up.
CHRYASANTHEMUMS: The plants should be transplanted from the 3 inch pots to the 4 inch pots.
FOLIAGE PLANTS: In the foliage plants the growth will be resumed. Therefore, these should be kept in the shade to avoid direct sun. Propagation by seed, division, and cutting can be done in the first fortnight.
LAWNS: Give another dose of sterameal with neemkhali. For a lawn 12×12 feet one kg each should be applied.
SEED COLLECTION: Continue seed collection as in March.
INDOOR PLANTS Save them from direct sun.
FOOD PRESERVATION China Orange, Mangoes, Jackfruit and Pumpkins are available and can be preserved.
MAY
FRUITS: Deep basins dug around Litchi and Mango trees should be watered and covered with dry leaves to make mulch. Lime washing applied to the lower part of the trunk up-to 3 feet to avoid splitting of the trunk bark by sunburn and safeguard them against insect and fungal attack.
VEGETABLES: Transplanting of seedlings of Chilies, Capsicum, Brinjals, Tomatoes, Ginger, Turmeric, Arvi and Zimikund should be planted and covered with 4-6 inches of thick layer of dry leaves to conserve moisture and protect them from the heat.
Land should be prepared for sowing Soya Bean in June and manure applied to the soil.
Prepare land for sowing rainy season vegetables like Pusa Sawni Bhindi, Karela, Louki, Cowpeas, Beans and Chachinda etc.
Early summer vegetables like Karela, Khira, Louki and Torai etc. should be trained on wooden supports. Garlic sown in October should be dug out, tied with strings and hung.
Spring Onion crop should be irrigated, hoed and trampled upon by feet to retard excessive leafy growth and to induce large and firm bulbs on onions.
FLOWERS
SUMMER & ANNUALS FLOWERS: Transplanting of Portulaca, Amaranthus, Coleus, Kochia, Gompherena and Sunflower etc. should be done early. Seeds of Balsam, Zinnia, Petunia, and Carnation etc. may be sown in flower pots to raise seedlings of these rainy season flowers.
CHRYASANTHEMUMS: The plants should be transplanted from the 4 inch pots to the 5 inch pots. Suckers planted in beds or 9-10 inch pots, should be now about 6-8 inch tall, their top 1 inch should be cut off with a pair of scissors.
BULBS: Tuberose, Lilly and Cannas bulbs should be planted now. LAWNS: Regular watering is must. In case you wish to have a new lawn, than start digging the lawn up to one foot deep during the last week of the month.
INDOOR PLANTS Save them from direct sun. Mulching with grass or dry leaves or moss-grass can be done to retain moisture.
JUNE
FRUITS: Pits of 3 X 3 feet should be dug for planting fruit trees of Litchi, Mango, and Citrus etc. next month. These pits should be filled up with farmyard manure mixed with top 9″ of the soil from these very pits.
VEGETABLES: Land should be prepared for sowing seeds of Soya Beans with the advent pre-monsoon showers.
Planting of Ginger, Haldi, Arvi etc. should be completed without any further delay if not done already.
Seeds of rainy season vegetables should be sown taking advantage of the pre-monsoon showers.
Maize is also planted during this month. Supports should be provided to the creepers already growing in your garden.
Transplanting of seedlings of Chilies, Capsicum, Brinjals etc. should be done if not done so far.
FLOWERS: Seedlings of rainy flowers should be planted as the seedlings are ready.
CHRYASANTHEMUMS: 5 inch pots plants should be now potted in 6 inch pots. Cut the tip ends again.
PREPERATION OF SOIL MIXTURE FOR POTS: Prepare mixture of 2 parts garden soil, 2 parts well rotten cow dung manure and 1 part sand. Take 10 pots of above soil mixture; add ten teaspoons of slaked lime/marble powder and ten teaspoons of charcoal granules.
Mix well and fill your pots, after covering properly the bottom hole of the pot with crocks i.e. broken pieces of pots. This will ensure good drainage and prevent water logging.
Now to each pot add one level teaspoon of Agromin and one tablespoon of Single Superphosphate. Mix well and water and turn the soil. The pots are now ready to receive the plants in July/August.
LAWNS: The soil which was dug up in the last week of May should be turned inside and outside 2-3 times so that the roots of weeds and any other ant-holes etc. are exposed to the sun and destroyed by the heat.
Keep the earth exposed for about two to three weeks. Then sprinkle some sand on the topsoil along with some slaked lime. Let the earth dry out and then level the ground for planting of the grass.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Mangoes, Peaches, Bael, Litchi, Phalsa,
JULY
FRUITS: Top priority should be to drain off the rainwater during the rainy season to avoid water logging.
Dry leaves ad turfs of Litchi trees after plucking of the fruit should be filled in the basins around the trees and covered with a thick layer of earth (2-3 feet). For planting of Litchi, Mango, Guava, Citrus and other fruit saplings, the previously dug pits should be utilised and after planting raised basins should be made.
VEGETABLES: Sowing of rainy season vegetables like Bhindi, Kerala, Khira, Louki, Prtha, Pumpkins, Cowpea, Soya, Lobia and Asparagus bean should be sown if not already done. Ginger, Haldi, Arvi etc. should be earthed up as soon as the young shoots come up and are 6-8 inches high.
Hoeing, weeding and general cleaning of vegetable beds should be done at regular intervals.
FLOWERS: Rainy season flowers like Zinnia, Balsam, Coleus, Kochia, Dahlia, Sunflower, etc. should be transplanted immediately. Cutting of hedge plants, ornamental bushes and creepers may be planted after the rains set in fully.
CHRYASANTHEMUMS: In the first week of July 4 inch long tip cuttings should be taken from the top branches of stock plants and planted in previously sterlised sand.
LAWNS: New lawns may be laid out after digging and leveling and runners of the grass of your choice should be planted closely.
SUCCULENTS AND CACTUS: Keep them away from the rains.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Mangoes, Peaches, Bael, Litchi, Phalsa,
AUGUST
FRUITS: Top priority should be to drain off the rainwater during the rainy season to avoid water logging.
Sapling of Litchi, Mango, Guava, Citrus and other fruit saplings, should in their permanent sites in the previously dug pits and filled with manures and top soil from the pits.
A little Phorate should be added to eradicate attack of white ants and other pests.
VEGETABLES: Ginger, Haldi, Arvi etc. should be earthed up after removing weeds growing in these.
Sweet potato are grown from sprouts produced from the tubers and from cuttings and should be planted on high ridges. Celery is sown in July/August. It is highly nutritive.
FLOWERS: Early sowing of flower seeds like Salvia, Aster, Phlox, Petunia and Marigold can be done. Early variety of Gladiola may be put in beds. Hoeing, weeding and general cleaning can be done of all the flower beds regularly.
CHRYASANTHEMUMS: Each rooted cutting can be potted straight into 9 inches pots in the first week of August. Keep the pot in full shade for 7 days and then in partial shade for another 7 days. Thereafter keep it in a sunny location. Protect these from heavy rains.
SUPPLEMENTARY FEEDING: Dissolve two teaspoons each of Urea and Potash in 10 Liters of water. Add two cups of this to each Pot. Thereafter water the plant. This application should be continued till end of September, once in 15 days.
SPECIAL POINTS FOR SMALL FLOWERED PLANTS: When the plant is 5-6 inches tall pinch the top 1/2 inch to encourage branches. When the branches are about 3 inch long again pinch. Continue the process till end of September to obtain a large head of flowers.
A cage of three to four split bamboo canes should be provided till the middle of August.
POINTS FOR LARGE FLOWERED PLANTS: These types are grown to take 1-4 flowers per plant.
By middle of August, provide 2-3 feet long split bamboo stakes as it grows. In the beginning of September lateral branches will appear in leaf axils, remove them as soon as hand able by turning to one side. It is easy because the branch is brittle in the beginning.
At the end of each branch, 3 flower buds will appear. Keep the healthy one and remove the others when easy to handle.
INDOOR PLANTS: Put out all the indoor plants in the rain (water logging should be avoided).
HEDGES: Cutting of hedge plants, climbers and other ornamental plant should be planted, also seeds of quick growing hedges like Jainter, Aliar or Inga Dulcis, may be sown for making hedges.
LAWNS: New lawns may be laid out after digging and leveling and runners of the grass of your choice should be planted closely.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Jamun,
SEPTEMBER
FRUITS: Sapling of Litchi, Mango, Guava, Citrus and other fruit saplings, should be planted in their permanent sites immediately if not done so.
Basins around the Litchi and Mango trees, filled up earlier, should be made by digging in the decayed leaves etc. and a mixture of chemical manure (NPK) should be added in the still lightly moist soil and mixed properly.
All the dead, dry, damaged or out of place and diseased branches of all the fruit trees should be removed and to give proper shape and ventilation and sunlight to them.
VEGETABLES: Land should be prepared after adding manure for sowing whole tubers of potatoes for early winter crop.
Ginger, Haldi, Arvi etc. should be earthed up after removing weeds growing in these.
Seeds of early dwarf Peas, French Beans, Radish, Turnip, Beet Root, Methi, Palak, Dhania and bulbs of Onion and Garlic segments may be sown towards the end of the month for early supply of these.
Seedlings of Cauliflower, Cabbage, Tomato, Brinjals and Lettuce should be transplanted for early supply. Celery is sown in July/August. It is highly nutritive.
Sprouting Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, Parsley and Leak should be sown by end September. These vegetables are a rich source of Vitamin A, B1, B2 and C.
FLOWERS: Aster, Antirrhinum, Carnation, Phlox, Dahlia, Gerbera, Holy Hock, Larkspur, Linaria, Lupines, Marigold, Pansy, Poppy, Salvia, Stock, Sweet Peas, Cosmos, Sweet William and Verbena should be sown in small beds for raising their seedlings.
CHRYASANTHEMUMS: Same as in August.
ROSES: It has been observed that in
PRUNING HINTS: The following steps should be the guiding factor for a good prune:
1. Remove all dead and dry stems and dry portion of partly healthy stems.
2. Cut off weak thin twigs.
3. Cut of branches growing inwards, i.e. towards the centre of the bush. The center will open up.
4. Select five to six healthy canes for retention and remove all the others.
5. Shorten the remaining canes to 15-18 inches above the scion. While pruning the canes, the cut should be made 1/2 inch above the outward looking eye.
6. After pruning, the practice of drenching all branches and cut ends with spray of mixture of a contact and systemic insecticide in the following proportion should be undertaken:
To 10 Liters WATER add 10 Liters METACID OR 10 ml NUVAN, OR 10 ml METASYSTOX OR 5 Liters DIMECRON. The effect lasts for 2-3 weeks after spraying.
After the pruning an application of cow-dung 50 gm, NPK mixture 2 heaped tablespoons and Agromin 1 heaped tablespoon should be given to each plant.
HEDGES: Cutting of hedge plants, climbers and other ornamental plant should be immediately planted, if not done so.
LAWNS: New lawns may be laid out immediately without any further delay. Weeding should be carried out effectively.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Jamun,
OCTOBER
FRUITS: Manure mixture of NPK in the ratio of 1:2:1 should be applied and dug in the basins when the soil is moist.
Basins around Litchi and Mango trees should be remade and manure should be applied in adequate quantity.
All dead, dry and out of place branches of Litchi, Mango and Guava trees should be removed to allow full sunshine and air to give proper shape to these.
VEGETABLES: After cleaning up the garden of all weeds and grasses, land should be dug and exposed to the sun for 2-3 days.
Manure applied to the beds for sowing winter vegetables viz. Peas, Beans, Radish, Turnip, Beet Root, Methi, Palak, Dhania, Brinjals, Cabbage, Cauliflowers, Knol Kole, and Lettuce etc.
Bulbs of Onion and Garlic Cloves should be planted preferably on well manure ridges.
Seedlings of Cauliflower, Cabbage, Knoll Kola, Brinjala, and Tomato should be transplanted in well manure beds or ridges.
Seeds of Chilies, Capsicum and Tomato may also be sown to be transplanted in January for fruiting in April.
Ginger and Turmeric ridges should be earthed up heavily after removing weeds etc.
Whole potato tubers 1/2 inch diameter approximately should be planted preferably on well manure ridges.
FLOWERS: Transplant all the ready seedlings. For late flowering sow Aster, Antirrhinum, Carnation, Phlox, Dahlia, Gerbera, Holy Hock, Larkspur, Linaria, Lupines, Marigold, Pansy, Poppy, Salvia, Stock, Sweet Peas, Cosmos, Sweet William and Verbena.
Seeds of Sweet Peas should be sown in well manure and deeply dug trenches or beds and young seedlings on sprouting may be covered with wire netting or thorny bushes to protect them from damage by birds.
Put in the Hedges and the Evergreen Dahlia Cuttings.
Multi coloured Gladiolus, Narcissus and Iris bulbs can be sow. ROSES: Roses dug out of ground with earth ball should be planted after mid October.
LAWNS: Give Urea or CAN to grass and immediately flood it.
NOVEMBER
FRUITS: Young fruit saplings of Litchi, Mango, Papaya, Chikoo etc should be protected from frost and cold by covering these with rough thatches keeping the south-west side open to allow air and sunshine.
Pruning of Peach,
Manure should be applied to all the fruit trees after making wide basins. A mixture of NPK in the ratio of 1:2:1 should be applied as per the age chart followed by watering.
After pruning, these trees should be sprayed with Malathion to protect them from the hibernating of pests.
VEGETABLES: Winter vegetables viz. Peas, Beans, Radish, Turnip, Beet Root, Methi, Palak, Dhania, Brinjals, Cabbage, Cauliflowers, Knoll Kole, and Lettuce etc. should be sown in small beds at intervals of 15 days to ensure uninterrupted supply of these.
Transplanting of seedlings sown earlier can be done. Bulbs of Onion and Garlic Cloves should be planted without further delay.
Seeds of Onion should be sown in small raised beds in the nursery to raise seedlings of main spring crop of dry bulbs.
Ginger and Turmeric may be dug out after their leaves have dried up. These should then be washed and dried up for storing in a well aired store.
Seedling of late Cauliflower, Cabbage, Knoll Kole and Lettuce should be transplanted on well-manure ridges or flat beds.
FLOWERS: Seedling can be transplanted. Narcissus and Gladiolus bulbs can be grown in this month.
Transplant all the ready seedlings.
For late flowering sow Aster, Antirrhinum, Carnation, Phlox, Dahlia, Gerbera, Holy Hock, Larkspur, Linaria, Lupines, Marigold, Pansy, Poppy, Salvia, Stock, Sweet Peas, Cosmos, Sweet William and Verbena.
Sweet Peas and plants already planted should be given support after pinching their upper parts to induce side shoots and prevent their growing too tall.
ROSES: Roses dug out of ground with earth ball should be planted from the first week of November to end January. While planting a rose the bud should be kept 3-4 inches above the ground level and the un-sprouted side of the bud should be kept pointed towards the east/south.
Roses do well in any type of garden soil, sandy or clay, but not chalky provided it is well drained. There should not be any water logging in rose beds. An ideal pit for planting roses should be 1.5 feet in diameter and 1.5 feet deep.
The soil dug out of the pit for planting roses should be mixed with a tasla of well rotten cow-dung manure and 250 gm of bone meal. About 50 Gm of 10 % Phorate should also be added to the soil.
After mixing, the pit should be filled with the mixture and the remaining soil should be piled up on the pit. Then after making a circular ridge the pit should be watered. The depression caused by sinking of soil should be filled up.
If this is done 2-3 times, it will ensure that the soil will not sink any more.
The pit is then ready to receive the plant. Planting Distance: H.T. AND F.B. ROSES 3 - 3.5 feet Miniature and Polyantha roses 2.5 feet Climbers and shrub roses 6 feet Container grow roses can be planted anytime of the year.
Even then, the 2 very hot months of May and June should be avoided.
LAWNS: Give stearmeal to your lawn.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Cauliflower, Tomato, Turnip, Carrots, Sarson, Amla, Gauva, Ginger and Apple are available.
DECEMBER
FRUITS: This is the hibernating month and the trees should not be disturbed.
VEGETABLES: Seeds of Onion, Lettuce and Tomato should be transplanted.
FLOWERS
CHRYASANTHEMUMS: Cut off the stem after flowering and set aside the plants. Protect them from water logging and frost.
INDOOR PLANTS: No manure and transplanting required. LAWNS: Give Urea mixed with Neem Cake and water it.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Peas,
Posted in Gaedening.
– August 3, 2008
