The Golden Temple
Long, long ago, the present city of Amritsar was a dense forest with a pool in it. Several villages fringed the forest. According to the traditions, Lord Buddha is believed to have stopped here for a while and to have said, “The spot is the best for the Bhikshus (Buddhist monks) to attain the Nirvana (Salvation) and is far superior in that respect to other places so far visited. But it must have time for its celebrity”. The place acquired some prominence of the early days of Buddhism. But it did not last long and in the days of Guru Nanak, Amritsar was again a dense, deserted forest owned by the adjoining villages of Tung, Sultanwind, Gumtala and Gilwali.
The temple is surrounded by the Amrit-Sarovar (the Pool of Nectar), in which people bath and drink. Everyday the holy books are read. There are two ceremonies. At about 4:00, the Adi Grantha (The Sikh Holy Scriptures) is carried in a golden palanquin from the Akal Takhat (the Divine Throne), in the Temple precincts to the Golden Temple. The Adi Grantha is carried back to the Akal Takhat in the same palanquin at 21:00. Hymns from the Holy Book are sung without a break throughout the day in the temple. The Ragis (the musicians) play their tablas, sitars and other instruments. Everyone responds in chants and by standing, sitting, or touching the floor where the holy gurus once stood. Gurus sit in rooms set all around the temple reading continuously copies of the Adi Grantha. The gurus are dressed in blue, yellow, orange and white.
We enter Amritsar (Lit. The Tank of Nectar), passing many signs advertising private schools and fine colleges. We pass men-powered rickshaws, old derelict British colonial buildings and Hindu temples. We check out the prices of some hotels and found these Too expensive. One hotelier tells us that it is free for foreigners to sleep and eat at the HARI Mandir (the Temple of God). We investigate and follow the signs for the Golden Temple. We are led to the gate of the temple and told that we can stay with our own people. We explain that we would rather stay with the locals, in their section. We try but it is not possible. At the entrance of the temple you can read the following sign:
“DO REMEMBER PLEASE”
1. Tobacco, narcotics and intoxicants in any shape or form are not to be carried into the Temple Precincts.
2. SHOES including SOCKS, STICKS and UMBRELLAS of visitors are to be left outside the Holy premises. They are taken care of by the temple employees FREE OF CHARGE.
3. Visitors will please WASH their feet at the taps at the entrance outside the Holy grounds.
4. Visitors will please keep their HEADS COVERED all the time they are inside the Golden Temple Complex or in the Holy Premises.
5. Photography is permitted only around the PARKARMA (Water tank).”
We are led to the foreigners’ dormitory section. We have a room facing the wash square. In the dormitory there are beds set in a row, some rooms and a wash room. Most tourists here are lonely planet travellers. In a few hours, we see more tourists here in India than in Pakistan in five weeks. We leave the bikes and go to the temple. When you first walk towards the temple you are taken aback by the bright shinning golden reflections set against the white marble grounds. There are men and women, gurus and travellers. The orange colour is everywhere. This is a holy colour for Sikhs. The temple is surrounded by the Amrit-Sarovar (the Pool of Nectar), in which people bath and drink. Everyday Adi Grantha (The Sikh Holy Scriptures) is read (Click on the link below Sikhism for more details about the faith and the Golden Temple). After sunset, we go back to the dormitory and find, around the washing quarters, in the Indian area, lots of people sleeping on mats on the floor, all huddled together (click on link below Pictures). How embarrassed we felt. Once again, we, along with the other travellers - in our ‘foreigners only’ dormitory - have been given the best accommodation, with a bed. For free! You cannot be any nearer of the Golden Temple. The pilgrims in the building next door have to pay 50 Rupees each for their accommodations. The food from the Langar (Community Kitchen) offers lentils soup free for all. We wonder, when was the last time we saw, in Europe, any foreign tourists, being offered free accommodation, near a major tourist attraction…It doesn’t happen, does it?
