Kutch - Triumph of the Spirit
Friends,
I am posting excerpts from the book, "Kutch ' Triumph of the Spirit" written by Randhir Khare. Even I couldn't have put it better about ourselves. None of the words written below are mine. They are totally that of the authors.
Excerpts :
From the introductory chapter in the book:
This book is not about the earthquake that wrecked the region of Kutch in 2001. Nor is it an activist's investigation into what happened after the disaster. Kutchi history is fraught with unimaginable disasters earthquakes, droughts, famines, invasions by rats, locusts, giant black ants, floods, the plague, invasions by warlords and oppression under successive rulers. The recent earthquake was just another occurrence of disaster that the people have had to bear with.
Instead this is the story of people, living in a region that is perpetually in a state of flux and change, with patience, inventiveness, inclusiveness and courageous openness to life. It is the story of craftsmen and craftswomen, musicians, farmers, shepherds, traders and all those we see as a population counts but never get to know as human beings. This is their story.
The photographer Susan Bullough and I had begun our travels through Kutch long before the earthquake happened, not with a view to produce an idyllic coffee-table book but instead to tell the story of how Kutchis have lived through times of change . Their memories, disasters and triumphs.
I don't claim to be either a sociologist, anthropologist, historian or any such authority. I am a writer who journeyed through Kutch, experiencing the people, the places, the memories and the timelessness of a mutating land and I have come back to you, dear reader, to share my experiences.
If you do get to read this book, please don't store it away on your shelf after you have finished the last page. Pass it to friends. Share it with others.
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From the various chapters in the book: -
My experiences in Kutch had taught me never to be surprised but to carry on accepting people and happenings as I encountered them. Yes, surprise is the keyword here. Surprise caused by constant flux. One moment everything is what you think it is and the very next it is something quite different. I realized that if I could not get used to that state of being, I would never get used to the Kutchi way of life.
Across the thousands and thousands of years in the life of Kutch, so much had happened. Earthquakes constantly changed the face of the land once pulling in the arm of the sea to make Kutch an island, then heaving the land up and pushing back the saline arm and welding the island to the mainland with the inhospitable tract called the Great Rann of Kutch, the river Indus and later lifting the slabs of earth to make the river flow backwards till it changed its course. The people of Kutch had got used to living with change, with surprise, and it was not just ground beneath their feet that shifted and altered itself but even those who passed through their lives. Kutch was a gateway, a passageway, a link, a bridge, and history has left a myriad footprints across not only her land but also the psyche of her people.
Here in Kutch, people have a relationship with the land they have been born on. There is an attachment. Probably that's what brought me here. This habit. I've often wondered about this attachment. And the only answer that has come to my mind is that people find Kutch a safe place. It is safe and secure here. There's a low crime rate and life has its own unhurried pace, but the people look inwards. They are known to be tolerant. I don't know if it's the inclement weather that has made them like this. They are tolerant to people ' that's one side of them. The other side is very complex.
Few historic legends in Kutch have happy endings. They are fraught with oppression, struggle, destruction and redemption. What is lost in life is gained in death and ultimate goodness or power is born like a phoenix from the ashes. Even sagas of romance are often tinted with similar shades. A people constantly reinventing themselves out of disaster and defeat, willing to give life and hope another chance.
The erosive forces of neglect have not only affected human life in Kutch but even archaeological sites. So strong is the need among the majority of the Kutchis to merely cope with everyday demands, that they don't have the time nor the inclination to bother about historical remains unless they have a direct relevance to religious deities, saints, heroes and associated festivals. Being strewn with Stone Age tools, ancient relics, carvings, inscriptions, seals, coins and countless crumbling structures, the region ought to have been a paradise for archaeologists, anthropologists and historians with a dynamic and constantly updated museum.
Standing there on the crossroads I felt a part of all that had passed that way, down the corridors of time and space. And for the first time in all my journeys through Kutch, I felt a stranger no more, but one of the many travelers who pitched tent and left with the dawn, leaving behind the cold ashes of a fireplace and a few scattered foot prints that would be swept away by the leveling winds of the Great Rann.
Today, at this moment, sitting here and writing these last few words, I cannot remember what happened after those moments, that day, standing among the ruins, surrounded by voices of the wind. That is the last memory that I hold on to, washed in a blaze of light.
Link to an online Album:
http://picasaweb.google.com/rbvora/KutchTour