The Pindari  Trial.

An Easy trek rendered tough and difficult due to lack of planning !

Around 1996 I had laid my hand on a small book written by Bill Aitken , a scot  ‘The Nandadevi Affair’ .I don’t think I had ever trekked in Himalayas then and hence read it very reluctantly and may be incompletely, for  the book actually has no plot but a lot to tell and if you have not roamed in the mountain mystic it may fail to impress you.It is likely that I bought this book having visited Kumaon region  as a tourist in Nainital when I put up in Vikrams Inn with my son having travelled from Delhi staying at Guest House of Centre Of Biochemicals at  University Of Delhi courtesy Dr S.V.Gangal   V.P Institute.

I was impressed with this region and the scenic beauty of the lakes and Ranikhet and Kasauni and the Taals which we roamed and even took pictures which I plan to scan and put on record. The presiding diety of this region is The Nandadevi and the trial that leads to this mystic mountain is the Pindari Trek.So when the call came clear from my group to embark on this adventure I readily agreed although I was apprehensive having done the Mizo trek in November.

I am aware that our group is a performance enhancer and hence felt that I surely can make it to Zero Point and behold the Nandakot and Nandadevi if weather gods permit. What I did not know was this was never to happen and this story is all about this precise failure.

I all started with our group leader making arrangement with kumaon vikas Nigam.One Mr Vinod Negi actually misguided him into believing that this 10 days trek can be completed in 5-6 days. Being avid trekkers in Sahayadri Ghats we felt that this although demanding was not impossible if we perform as a group. This assumption was correct but the group strength was underdefined.We swelled up into a group of 40 plus and that was a deterrent to adequate communication and consensus. So cleverly we let it go the way the leader planned. Normally before such a time crunched project it is customary to have a meeting for discussions and preparations, but as the route was a well demarcated route and a routine one we let that go. Moreover to get 40 people together was impossible before the trek and that was a strong reason too.

A  very strong communication gap thus existed from day one. I  had enlisted two of my nephews into the trek.Vikram who was with me at Mizoram and Mahesh who had done Sar Pass 2 years back. Now there was another hitch. Around 25 of the forty wanted to roam Nainital too and this double objective was a moving target.I , Vikram and Mahesh opted out of Nainital as I had done it in past and had no inclination to act as a trekker and tourist in same session while Vikram and Mahesh opted out for lack of time. Now thus the onus was on excellent time management if both objectives were to be met.

Delhi station was our first adversity. The old station is the lousiest place on earth in summertime due to the heat and the sheer number of passengers .We nearly suffered a nauseating heat stroke as we parked in Macdonnalds on the station in a corner where there was no air circulation. Getting into the train was an ordeal especially with the entire group spread out in various classes and bogies. We retired early I on the top berth of Ac 3 tier but did not catch a wink possibly due to the anxiety and the stark contrast of Air to Rail travel. A 6 a when I came down I had a small back injury and with my 10 KG haversack was ill disposed. A bus was waiting for us at Kathgodam.This place was good but our mood bad due to the insomnia and non availability of tea on the platform.Now the bus was a contraption and just passable as we were packed into it .Bad design and lack of breeze took its toll, sitting on edge of seat I hardly could make up for the sleep. Another shocker cam when we had to make a detour as national highway to Bageswar was closed for  repairs of a bridge and our bus was diverted. We thus lost all the advantage of the Highway travel and the dirt roads was meandering, risky and narrow. Our driver backed every time a large vehicle came head on and this went on incessantly at least 10 times .The heat was killing and we wondered how even  at a height of 2500 feet we were  feeling relentless heat.This was in stark contrast to my earlier experience in nainital  and I got convinced  that a lot has been lost in Kumaon region due to development and global warming. With punctuations of tea and snack break the tour lasted for a knocking 12 hours against 6 hours. Everyone was now tired ,bored and exhausted and even group singing by youngsters at the back could not lift our spirit.

When I looked up into the Map of Bill immediately after his foreword I realized that the route we ought to have taken was Kathgodam –Bhim Tal-Mirtola-Almora -Binsar and then Kausani  closing onto Bageshwar.Instead we had to go via Jeolikote-Bhowali-Mukuteshwar-Someshwar-Kausani-Garur and then onto Bageshwar.The distance was not much but bad road condition added to our vowes.

To cut down on time we had done our reporting at Saung rather than at Bageshwar .This was a massive mistake for we were deprived of decent luxury of the guest house with a good dormitory instead here  we actually hurriedly had to unpack and repack depositing our belongings in a tiny room of the office.We reloaded into the bus for Saung tired and sleepy with our haversacks on our laps fearing rains  we travelled to Saung and reached in at an ungodly hour at 9 pm high up on the hill .Here there was an option we could go upto Loharkhet by hiking for 3 hours or ride a risky journey up in a jeep which slipped backwards and which had to be monitored by linesmen with torched less it slips into the valley.This gave everyone goose bends and we reached in 45 minutes while we waited for others to arrive.As I reached ,I had a cold bath and partied with jadya and Mahesh who had opted for the Jeep risking our lives. After  2 stiff ones which I had with Mahesh and Jadya I had my fill with parathas and subji and Dal with chawal.There was kheer for dessert. As we finished one by one the brave ones who had mounted and  masculine attack on that ruthless mountain arrived huffing and puffing we felt relieved and happy. icky was amongst the first to arrive and I admired him .Then I retired having felt done. That night Jadya kept me half awake with his snoring. It was second bad night in a row. Next morning I changed and was rearing to go after 2 toast jam and butter sandwiches washed down with tea.I was now dressed in shorts and a T shirt.

 

We started on checkered path with fine scenic path one by one with a guide who looked like a clerk more than a local tribesman or Kumauni scout. But it did not matter since the path was definite and paved. We walked and walked for 3 hours with all the vegetations around us and tall mountains on all side .Finally we came to a Bugiyal (Meadow) were we rested on our back. We also came at one tomb stone of a German trekker who had lost his life in a bad blizzard. We cursed the lengthy walk but enthusiasm took control as I assured myself that this was all invited and natural in a trek. We survived on Chikki made of jaggary and peanuts and had mouthfuls of water as we toiled and wrestled with the immense heat due to a deranged climate and our own metabolism. I took a few snaps now and again on my mobile phone as I had not loaded myself with the Sony Handycam which was with the porter. This time I had employed the services of a porter  for the first time in my trekking life without impunity as was decided much in advance only to cause less anxiety to other trekkers. I don’t repent for the porters were bright young and friendly unlike the guide. We were all toiling hard to prove to ourselves that we were good trekkers who keep time schedule at forefront and some fitter ones like Devendra and Nandu and Vilas and Sanjay arrived at Dhakuri at around 12 noon a trek of 11 kms .Then one by one we trailed into Dhakuri.The spot was mood elevating and we were welcomed by a Tang like Rasna drink and good food. As we rested for some time waiting for others to arrive, a small argument occurred unexpectedly. Those who reached Dhakuri remarked boasting that they had arrived much early. Mahesh lost his mind and remarked that this is not a marathon like competition for which we could have entered one in Pune or Bangalore or Mumbai. I agreed with him stating that Trekking was adventure sport and not a competition sport and each one has to compete with himself keeping his spirits and health in top condition and not risking too much and only as much to achieve the much desired training effect .I was actually expounding a basic physiology principle and the polemics came to an end.

At last everyone had arrived it was now 3 pm and those who trailed had developed a nasty temper.Shrikant had been a veteran trekker but this time he seemed to be less prepared. At Dhakuri walking 11 kms was asking too much from him and his friend Dilip Doshi a businessman who had come on a trek first time.Thatte had done Sar pass last year but had seldom done any small Shayadri treks due to his tight time schedule.He refused to budge and said that he is not joining the group any further. This was indeed sad for all and I a bit more as I was losing company of someone of my own age group .i cajoled him to continue telling him that everything will work out fine. But he declared that walking another 8 kms to Khati on the same day was terrible and self inflicting if not indulging. Thus we had 4 casualties at Dhakuri. We fell in line reluctantly adjusting our Ponchos for suddenly the climate changed and it started drizzling. I shuddered at the prospects of walking 9 kms now right after lunch into a late night arrival as it would be getting dark at Khati.Fortunately the rain stopped and we continued hurriedly while being coaxed by the guide who was now distinctly misbehaving and acting a ring master. I had a tiff with him and no longer regarded him as a leader.

One to two kilometers and now abruptly we confronted the Pindar Ganga at a very scenic spot. The sight of crystal waters refreshed us and soon we were walking on wind side or lee side of the river which threw up kaleidoscopic designs of gushing waters making us aware of snow-clad mountains somewhere in the vicinity within 20 kilometers perimeter. We walked over wooden bridges over huge boulders adding to the adventure as we took snaps and rested time to time .On one occasion we had to mount a landslide with loose mud which sloped into the river and this was really exciting. Now the sun was gradually setting and the sky getting more and more clouded with dark ones. And what we did not desire happened. I t suddenly started pouring as sun went down. We had to grope for our torches and poncho. My small backpack proved to be cumbersome and inconvenient as it had strings and although it looked trendy proved troublesome as I was required to maneuver the strings and that  was a real ordeal. I was getting wet as I had passed off this backpack to Samir being 110% exhausted. I pulled over a double use blazer which kept me from getting soaked. Now we were all walking silently as it thundered and rained in the darkness with valley on to our left and throwing torch light to illuminate our pathway.

We were silently suffering the terrible experience on the cold mountain into the forest with gusty wind and rains adding on to the night of horror. I fortunately could get the poncho as we all took shelter into a small house on outskirts of Khati where I wore my poncho with the help of a young girl who caught my backpack for some time before we started off reluctantly but surely. Later on return I discovered it was a Hotel Annapona (Annapurna) a shack cum hotel that looked desolate due to blackout without electricity.Khati was nowhere visible as the entire village had dozed off into the valley but a few signposts made it evident that we were gradually bidding onto our destination. It was now 9 pm and we had been hiking for nearly 6 hours and still around 2 km to go on a steep ascent.Vikram kept me company .At one point we came ahead chatting about the peril of the night trek. One road went to the village and a PWD house other up to the tourist house .The jungle was thick and as we were alone a certain fear of wild animal gripped me. I asked Vicky to stop and wait for others. Mahesh came in huffing and panting and of course cursing the challenging and merciless ascent totally fatigued by the grueling day and awful night .The steep climb was last straw on camel’s back and we were shattered by the unending road with paved stones that strangely deterred us rather than assist us in the dark night. We were literally crawling after this 9 km walk and after battling the ascent for another hour we somehow reached Khati fully drained out. Our porters had arrived. There were lights in the dormitories and Vicky and Mahesh quickly occupied the beds as everyone did the same after keeping our wet belongings secure and yet exposed for drying. I changed into double thermals. We whisked out our mini stuff Bacardi and had a stiff one. No one was in a mood to take dinner even as the call came from the kitchen. We somehow dragged ourselves to savor the healthy food lest we get famished. I tried to catch sleep and at 4 am I had a natures call and was happy with the chore but it disturbed my sleep now for the fourth day in succession .Next day I had only partially recovered. Even the booze had not helped me to get the feeling of being adequately rested and it had dismally failed to lift the spirits after having endured severe exhaustion.

Next morning we set off after good breakfast. This was getting bad to worse. The road refused to end the rains kept us on tenterhooks. We were determined to complete the lap and so we tested ourselves against all odds. The trek went on and on without respite. We would halt every 10-15 minutes on the ruthless ascent across rivers and falls. The forest was only the cloud with silver lining. It was exotically beautiful. That is the most important aspect of Kumaon Himalayan region which is more scenic like the Alps as compared to Garhwali Himalayas which are coniferous, ferocious and scary. Now this walk ceased to be a pleasure and it was testing us at every step. Right from 7am we were walking up to 2 pm. I was now more waddling than walking. Rains kept the atmosphere humid and sultry and caused a psychic depression but this happens in Himalayas as whether is always erratic. This was alright for a Mumbai fella but what took my toll was the mere endurance it demanded. At 3 Pm across the valley we saw some human settlements. It was the campsite. I had very systematically trailed behind over last 6 hours. In fact I was ahead when we started but now I was one of the last men who were arriving. As I came in Mahesh and Vicky were happy for me that I had done it afterall.But as I sat there on the parapet,I declared “ I am done”  It was a decision I was forced to take but I had no choice. It was  a necessary evil but it was true that I had succumbed to the vagaries of the nature and unable to cope with the toughness. I had my grub and now changed into comfortable clothes.3 more trekkers had given up and were to stay back with me. That was fine for me as I had company.Subtely I had always thought and entertained this idea in my mind to spend one day at such a Sylvain spot unbothered by the routine of trek in raptures with nature. I got this chance and so just let the worldly trek go by. The rest of the party then carried on.

As we chatted on the hill top analyzing the trek till that moment, low down we saw two of the trekkers reappear in the valley across the bridge on the river. We looked closely Manasi identified them .Oh she said “Papa is coming back” She sounded stunned. We felt a sudden fear grasp us. Has something gone wrong? We rushed down with snacks and water .No everything was Ok but Devendra one of the group boss was returning.” I give up” he declared and tears rolled down his cheeks!! It’s Ok I told him, this is not a competition it is an adventure and a testing one surely, so we are pitted against our own self. If our body gives up we have to respect it. I pacified him and got him back. He was given hot soup and he retired into the tent depressed and dejected. I too slept in the tent with three layers of clothes and 2 blankets. That night I for the first time slept soundly like a child.

We both kept away from the camp fire songs and revelry of the group which had come back from Pindari Zero Point victorious. They were not very great trekkers and many were first timers but they had succeeded because of better time management every dog has its day, I thought. I got talking with the leader and he told me how he had managed it. “I did not rely only on Vinod Negi.I crossed checked the facts with Delhi office of Kumaon Nigam”.That was a smart thing to do,I thought. We had relied on this person from Mumbai who conveniently had gone on a leave and refused to answer our queries. Next day we spent the full day at Dwali chatting and discussing .When I got talking to Devendra he blamed it on insomnia fairly and squarely and it was true!.Devendra impressed me with his repertoire of stories about Marathas and the Great Warlord  Shivaji.He also told me about his experience of Tikona fort trek and the subsequent swim across the Dam when Nandu gave up and swam back while the birds hovered over him as if he was an edible water creature. I realized Devendra to be a deeply emotional disciplinarian with no nonsense attitude towards life and living. A tee to taller he was a stickler for time and hard work and rigors of a clean healthy lifestyle. Non indulgence was his forte and he took great pride in it. Moreover he felt his entire family inculcate a vigorous lifestyle which was salubrious . He also told me about Poppy plantations in his native place and the usage and demand of this herb and its produce.

 No, we did not go to Kafni as we decided against it as it hardly beckoned us.. We had all the time to ourselves and that was a great feeling. I took snaps of snow clad mountains and the river that ran in the Deep valley and the land slide and the vegetation which grew on the edge and the loss of the arboreal architecture due to the landslide ,Of the Moon that came up during daytime and  the clouds that floated across the sky and hid the snow-clad peak towards North. In early morning I took snaps of golden sunshine on the Snow clad peak .I kept myself busy. Later I had hot water bath. The food was great. Now we waited patiently post lunch for our group to arrive from zero point. They did come in one by one .Vicky and Mahesh were there too. They were happy but exhausted. Who touched Zero Point we enquired? Only flying Manas as we had renamed him and Vijaya.Rest did it but in their own way.Jadya,Dani and Sanjay Athawale managed to reached Furkia and kept to the dormitory which was 7 km from Dwali after 2 phenomenally steep ascents of one  and two km each from where Devendra had  retired. Many went next day into the ice and snow towards Zero Point head on till zero point was in sight and retreated calling it a day. None of the youngsters did it except Manas.Even Nandu and Vilas and Sanjay E did not actually touch the Zero point from where one can see two glaciers melting into Pinder Ganga as Manas put it. Every one talked of Babaji and his hospitality who served food to them and enquired of their well being. That night we had a great get to gether.We self introduced and sang songs and rejoiced the trek getting over our misfortunes. I spoke about my trekking activity and about Rajus absence .I sang the chorus song of Zoom Gali Gali and Pearly shells. .We had sumptuous dinner and called it a day.

Next morning I was the first one to start off fully charged. I descended with Manas and Mahesh and Vicky.We were swift and sure.Endlesslessy we walked till we came to the mountain hotel where we sipped tea. Again we started with two  dogs as escorts who belonged to the camps. I took as many snaps I could. We reached Khati and at last came to a pick up point where we had arranged a vehicle to take us to Bageshwar.At 4 pm we got into the jeep and started for Bageshwar.The road was muddy and slippery, and the vehicle refused to mount a deeply gashed turn on a steep ascent .The porters who were with us tried all tricks but invain.Then another jeep arrived and with greatest effort of all who tugged and pushed the vehicle the Jeep managed to get ahead. It was getting dark and driving on this non tar road was frightening. On two occasions the vehicle skidded sideways on mud that offered no resistance and the wheels took sinuous lateral movement filling us with deadly fear of slipping into the valley. It was now a night full of suspense and we arrived at a village where the traffic had halted since a truck had turned turtle. We had to maneuver through the village cross country where our driver had managed to get his vehicle past the accident spot. It was a cute village and we even toyed with the idea of spending the night in the village. We sat silently praying and hoping this does not turn into a tragedy. Our nerves were being tested.Sanjay talked incessantly to drive out the tension and Mahesh lost his mind at one point asking him to shut up. Time and again we got down and walked with our powerful torches guiding the vehicle over very slippery patches where the vehicle went zig zag and undulating. Then at a hairpin bend the driver misjudged the acuteness. The vehicle came to a dead halt head-on facing the slope of the valley. It was utter horror. We got down and Sanjay with his huge might carried large stones to insert in front and back of both anterior and posterior right wheels. And then we had to push the vehicle over these stones which stabilized the vehicle preventing from skidding into the valley. It was a practical demonstration of salvage of the vehicle from skidding into the valley. This was an utter sinister and horrendous experience and it added hype to the adventure but with lots of dismay.

Next 2 hours the journey was a bit easy .Kapkot was a thriving place and I dozed off tired after the terrible ordeals on the road which matched the travel on foot others had to undertake. We arrived at Bageshwar at around 10 pm leaving behind a trail of 7 hours. We checked into two rooms and headed for a restaurant. We ordered chicken and rotis and pulao rice. The last two minis came in handy. The Bacardy blended with water without being noticed and I and Mahesh took it with happiness to add to our appetite. Food was good clean and sumptuous. We returned to our guest house and slept like logs.

Next day we lazed around wondering about others and their plight.We had hot water bath and then Mahesh went into the market to get some beer. We had gala time as we chatted all three of us in this remote district place on Gomati River. This was the second time I was seeing Gomati River as I had seen it twice earlier at Lucknow first time in 1982 and then around 7 years back again. Then we were called for the lunch. Post lunch we had a siesta and then tea. Now it was evening and then reluctantly we went for a stroll over the Gomti Bridge in to the shops of some shopping. We bought mangoes and curds. The dinner was bad as it upset my tummy. Next day the Indica arrived in time. Ektate couple headed for Munsiary and we left for Kathgodam the journey was cozy and comfortable as we desired it to be barring bad road patches due to landslides and road repairs we arrived into Kathgodam  .We were astonished when we arrived at Kathgodam in 6 hours straight .It was wonderful to travel along Bhim Tal which I had the good fortune to ferry into during my  last visit to Naini Tal .I distinctly remember about the environ mental consciousness of the region as we were not allowed any plastic bag. But this time I saw lots of residencies around Bhim Tal and at point full of filth and garbage. I felt sorry for uttarakhand and its ever increasing rape due to tourism and real estate opportunities. We enquired with the driver as to why it took us 12 hours through the horrific journey when we travelled for Bageshwar .”Saab “ this road was closed for 3 days for repair of a bridge .Ah we thought this is sheer bad luck  but this early bad patch had taken the steam out of out trek and caused us greatest damage. We headed for Udipiwala restaurant being deprived of southindian food which we relished. The food and the services were excellent and our moods uplifted.Kathgodam Railway station is cute neat and tidy and had a typical British construction style. We now retired into the first class waiting room which was packed with families due to summer vacations. I was glancing through “Wild Flowers of Himalayas” a book I bought from a shop next to Udipiwala restaurant. After a wait of 3 hours the train crawled onto the platform we walked upwards towards the engine and occupied our births. After chatting for a while we relished the mangoes we purchased and then quickly retired.Delhi came at around 6 am we got ready quickly and alighted. Delhi Station was a disaster as usual. We searched for a Toilet and went to a public one after another. Then we walked to Metro We changed into two trains and arrived at the Airport by Bus. It helped us to experience Delhi Metro which I had suffered 2 years back when I had been on an inspection stint. I liked the metro as much as Calcutta. We arrived at Delhi airport and checked in. There was much time so I snaked at McDonalds and also had a cone icecream.Mahesh carried on and boarded for Pune flight while Vikram and I took the Mumbai one. He gave me a lift to Powai and took the same Rick to thane to take a Bus for Nasik. I had arrived but I a  gloomy  mood for some days as I had failed to reach Zero Point making it an unaccomplished trek!!

Who’s who and what’s what on the Trial :

Vilas : Our main organizer who relied on Mr Negi and felt convinced that we could make it.

Leena : who kept in touch with me prior to the trek but who trailed behind with Samir and who wanted to attend a wedding at Delhi .Later I learnt that she had to take services of a Tatto for travel from Loharkhet to Saung.She turned out to be an acquaintance of Vicky’s wife Rajeshwari.

Samir: 6 feet and 3 inches tall and erect strongman, the main sheet anchor and rear guard .He helped me with my backpack and during the last lap to arrive at Dwali

Nandu: Police commando who was low key this time probably due to absence of Raju

Raju : My man Friday on treks. He could never make it to the trek due to his offices inadequacy and foolishness.

Mr and Mrs Ektate: couple  who kept me and Mahesh company throughout the trek except when I decided to stay back at Dwali.

Jadya : A huge giant who always kept our mood high but who was damned due to his nocturnal snoring which kept me and Devendra awake and affected.

Vikram: My Educationist nephew from Nasik who agreed to join me just as I agreed to join him on Mizo trek

Mahesh : My wife’s nephew who works for SunGard and who responded to come on trek at short notice having done Sar Pass 2 years back. At the time I am writing this he is in Chicago.

Devendra: A stalwart trekker who had been our leader at Kedarkantha YHAI Trek 3 years back